Europe’s youngest nation, Kosovo is full of surprises

Just around the corner is the Hillary Boutique, specializing in the iconic pantsuits worn by the presidential candidate. For all the highly visible strife of the 1990s, Kosovo turns out to be a safe, diverse, wildly beautiful and inexpensive English-speaking destination with good roads, hotels and restaurants. National parks make up 11 percent of the land area with scenic, accessible mountain terrain. The Clinton crush is the result of the American president calling in NATO forces in 1998 to stop Christian Serbs from wiping out the 92 percent Muslim ethnic Albanian majority living in Serbia’s southwestern province of Kosovo. After 78 brutal days of bombing, Slobodan Milosevic’s security forces retreated, and the final war in the breakup of the former Yugoslavia ended. Being a tiny, landlocked country less than half the size of Vermont makes Kosovo easy to explore while country-hopping to check out surrounding Albania, Montenegro, Macedonia or Serbia on a single trip. Throngs of young couples and groups of schoolchildren stroll the cobblestone streets and main square of the Old City on a Saturday afternoon. Shops are busy, and there is a buzz from the tree-shaded cafes, Turkish tea houses and small restaurants. The aroma of burek (phyllo pastry stuffed with cheese, meat or spinach), kebabs and other Turkish-style food drifts through the narrow streets lined with Byzantine and Ottoman medieval architecture, vestiges of the many empires that have passed through this east-west crossroad. Walking up a steep pathway to the castle encircling a hilltop overlooking Prizren, there are great views of the city, with its more than 20 mosque spires pointing heavenward. Spinning around, I watch pink sunset rays lighting up the snow-capped peaks of the Sharr mountain range. In the morning, hiking guide Edis Krusha drives us up a canyon road, zigzagging through forest and past hilltop castle ruins toward those mountains. After 90 minutes, we arrive at Prevalla, in winter a small ski center at 5,000 feet, and lace up our boots as a young shepherd urges a herd of sheep past us toward summer pastures. Hiking up the flank of one of the Sharr’s highest peaks, 8,559-foot Bistra, we cross alpine meadows blazing with wild orange crocuses and set up a picnic alongside a bubbling spring with views of valleys and snowy peaks. In Peja, with its bustling bazaar and strong Ottoman and Serbian Orthodox heritage, we stop for a fresh trout lunch overlooking the river that winds through this charming little city. The imposing medieval church — the biggest in the Balkans — smells warmly of beeswax candles illuminating spectacular frescoes and icons under restoration by the monks. Nuns stroll the landscaped grounds that include a convent and a group of four domed churches with ancient frescoes. Peja is also a gateway to outdoor activities, so — to the sound of Kosovar hip-hop on the radio — we drive up through the Rugova Gorge, a steep-walled canyon with countless tunnels winding alongside a river. Built by Italian professionals with extensive experience in the Dolomites, the route offers the vistas and adrenaline of rock climbing, but in a safe environment with no experience needed. Locals are keen to chat on a stroll through the lively “green” farmers’ market on my way to two beautifully preserved Ottoman houses in an enclosed walled garden, a complex that makes up the surprisingly excellent Ethnological Museum. The clued-in, enthusiastic, English-speaking staff give a fascinating tour, bringing to life various unique pieces of clothing, weapons, jewelry and household goods on display, a great introduction to Kosovar culture. Late that afternoon, near the Brutalist Gradski Stadium, I make the pilgrimage to the Newborn Monument that captures the country’s youthful spirit. Because when you’re surrounded by so much new, it’s nice to visit the past for a while. Several European airlines offer direct flights from their hubs to the International Airport in the capital of Pristina. Entry is only possible if you entered Kosovo from Serbia and are going back to Serbia. [...] it’s wise to check carefully about exact routes when planning multi-country trips. Friendly and centrally located boutique hotel just outside the Old City. A charming Turkish-style house serving traditional, local stews and grilled meat recipes as well as international dishes in a romantic setting. Popular and stylish contemporary restaurant with a covered deck serving traditional and international cuisine. Shadervanit 56 Prizren, +381 29 233 668, www.besimi-beska.com Lively family restaurant serving casual local cuisine from doner kebabs to fresh fish and grilled meats in the heart of Old Prizren. Reputable and efficient English-speaking tour operator offering group and custom trips for activities from outdoor adventures and Bosnian village lunches to cultural city and wine-tasting visits throughout Kosovo. Excellent English-speaking adventure travel company based in Peja offering single and multiday caving, hiking the Peak of the Balkans Trail and Via Ferrata.