The Best Climbing Ropes for Rock, Ice, and the Gym
Ten testers tied into eight ropes. After lots of use and abuse, these five came out on top.
The post The Best Climbing Ropes for Rock, Ice, and the Gym appeared first on Climbing.
An 1864 edition of the Alpine Journal reported that ropes were expected to break in an eight-foot fall. It wasn’t until nylon was widely introduced after World War II that the rope market significantly changed. What came next has stuck to this day: kernmantle ropes, constructed with an outer sheath and inner core. Invented by Edelrid in 1953, kernmantle ropes proved to be significantly stronger and more elastic, thus making falling while tied in far safer.
Although this fundamental design has essentially remained the same, modern manufacturing methods and dry treatment processes have continued to improve rope function and safety. These days, climbers are faced with a multitude of good options, and buying the perfect rope can feel akin to buying sheets online. Not to worry—here we present the best options for 2024.
At a Glance
- Editor’s Choice: Edelrid Eagle Lite Protect Pro Dry 9.5 mm (from $300)
- Most Affordable Workhorse: Fixe Hardware Foixarda 9.8 mm ($210)
- Best All-Rounder: Fixe Hardware Rodellar 9.4 mm ($280)
- Best Gym Rope: Trango Agility 9.8 mm (from $140)
- Best Skinny Rope: Tendon Master Pro 9.2mm (from $180)
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Types of Ropes
- Rope Specs
- Rope Care
- How We Test
- Meet Our Lead Testers
All gear in this guide was tested by multiple reviewers. When you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more.
Editor’s Choice
Edelrid Eagle Lite Protect Pro Dry 9.5 mm
$330 at Backcountry (70 m) $300 at Amazon (60 m)
Impact force: 8.7 kN
Sheath percentage: 38%
Dynamic elongation: 32%
Available lengths: 60 m, 70 m
Pros and Cons
⊕ Easiest, dreamiest uncoil of your life
⊕ Buttery handling
⊕ Highly abrasion-resistant
⊕ Bluesign-certified sustainable product
⊗ Not available in 80-meter length
⊗ Pricey
This rope was a clear favorite among the testers who used it. Whereas a few other ropes on this list needed, on average, to be cut once per week, this cord just kept going and going and going—two testers were able to make it last six weeks while climbing on it two to three times per week on sharp limestone in Rifle, Colorado.
There’s good science behind this durability: The Eagle Lite Protect utilizes Edelrid’s new Cut Protect technology, which incorporates aramid fibers into the sheath using a unique braiding process. Frequently used by the military and aerospace engineers, aramid fibers are known to be strong and heat-resistant and are often incorporated into ballistic-rated body armor fabric, like Kevlar.
Uncoiling the Eagle Lite Protect was sheer bliss—no knots, no kinks (not even with time), no frustration. You can thank Edelrid’s unique 3D lap coiling technology, which utilizes a coiling machine and helpful packaging—there’s a hole in the rope’s recyclable wrapping, through which you pull one end of the rope. Testers also remarked on this rope’s buttery feel, both fresh out of the plastic and after weeks of use. Again, special tech comes into play here: the rope features Edelrid’s Thermo Shield treatment, applied to all of the brand’s ropes to ensure typical Edelrid suppleness.
The rope’s core and sheath are dry treated, and accordingly testers didn’t notice water absorption in wet or humid conditions. As a final gold star, the rope is Bluesign certified, meaning that it meets stringent environmental standards in both material sourcing and production. Edelrid was (unsurprisingly) the first rope manufacturer to adopt this standard for all its ropes.
Most Affordable Workhorse
Fixe Hardware Foixarda 9.8 mm
Impact force: 8.6 kN
Sheath percentage: 36%
Dynamic elongation: 31%
Available lengths: 60 m, 70 m, 80 m
Pros and Cons
⊕ Durable yet still elastic
⊕ Reflective indicator helpful for night climbing
⊕ Silky smooth sheath, solid handling
⊗ A bit heavy
⊗ Not dry treated
Fixe labels the Foixarda as “an excellent choice for beginners in sport climbing,” but the veteran testers who used it beg to differ—it’s also a great choice for advanced and expert climbers.
This workhorse feels thin for a 9.8 and is enjoyable to clip due to its silky, smooth sheath. Our testers, who largely used this rope on limestone in Rifle, Colorado, noted that despite abrasive and obscure pitches that involved nasty cleaning, the rope held up just fine, with no signs of fraying or weakness.
The Foixarda is a bit stiff, but no more than expected for a thicker cord. One female tester—a self-described “heavier climber”—also noted this rope’s Goldilocks elasticity, saying it was stretchy, but not overly so. The Foixarda weighs more than the thinner cords, meaning it might not be a first choice for those putting in redpoint burns or hiking to backcountry crags, but it will last—testers noted a month of use before cutting.
Bonus: Red indicators located 8 meters from each end (unique to Fixe Hardware ropes) and reflective end indicators enhance visibility at night. The Foixarda feels luxurious, but at just $210 for 70 meters, it’s also affordable.
Best All-Rounder
Fixe Hardware Rodellar 9.4 mm
Impact force: 7.6 kN
Sheath percentage: 38%
Dynamic elongation: 37%
Available lengths: 60 m, 70 m, 80 m, 100 m
Pros and Cons
⊕ Silky smooth sheath
⊕ Durable in spite of smaller diameter
⊕ Nice elasticity
⊗ 8-meter indicators quickly wore off
Tester Matt Samet, based in Boulder, Colorado, summed up the best attribute of this rope. “I really, really like this diameter. 9.4 hits the sweet spot for me—it’s still small enough to handle well and feel light, but not bulky or too heavy.” Samet described this rope as dynamic, consistent, and predictable. “I took some big, sideways-swinging lobs on a Flatirons project in Skunk Canyon, some as big as 20 feet, and it was always soft and brought me to a gentle stop at the bottom.” The tight weave and thin diameter of the rope also meant less drag.
Like the Foixarda, but unlike most ropes at 9.4 millimeters, Fixe’s Rodellar is fairly stiff. Testers noted it wasn’t the easiest to flake or uncoil, and was a tad kinky on day one, but that it improved in handling thereafter. The sheath is slick and glides well through the hands and hardware, which resulted in pleasant clipping.
After about 100 pitches and a fair amount of dirt accumulation, that sleek handling hasn’t changed. Despite using the rope on overhanging walls (all of which involved a fair amount of dogging), testers also noted no sheath fuzz and never had to trim the rope. “It’s hard-wearing: The sheath doesn’t slide around on the core, which seems to contribute to its toughness,” says Samet.
Like the Rodellar, this cord features reflective marks at 8 meters before the ends, but our testers noted that these wore off after just a couple days of use. The black middle marker, however, has remained visible.
Best Gym Rope
Trango 9.8 Agility
Impact force: 8.3 kN
Sheath percentage: 35%
Dynamic elongation: 32%
Available lengths: 40 m, 50 m, 60 m, 70 m
Pros and Cons
⊕ Slippery sheath makes for nice handling
⊗ Minor kinking
⊗ Tad pricey for the size
⊗ Stiff and cablelike
This 40-meter cut is ideal for gym enthusiasts or top ropers, as it likely won’t be long enough for most cragging. The lead tester for this rope, Boulder, Colorado-based Matt Samet, noted minor kinking issues, and that the rope felt thick, even for a 9.8 millimeters. “It feels more like a 10.2 or 10.4. And it’s a bit cablelike and tends to get twisty” says Samet. He mostly used the rope in the gym, but also took it out for a spin on short routes in Boulder’s Flatirons. He added that you’ll want a partner who knows how to give a soft belay because the Agility doesn’t stretch much due to its beefy diameter. That said, it made the cut on this year’s list for offering nice handling, thanks to a tight weave and slippery-feeling sheath that allows it to easily slide through draws.
One tester remarked that its weave (Trango calls this the Agility 1×1 weave)—is “like high-thread-count sheets, it just has a better ‘feel’ than cheaper materials or lesser ropes.” The Agility also proved to be durable: After about 200 gym pitches and a few top-rope sessions over an abrasive sandstone lip in Skunk Canyon in the Flatirons, there were no furry or softs spots. It’s not dry-treated, so it’s not recommended for wet or humid environments. Still, if a gym rope is what you need, this is a solid choice.
Best Skinny Rope
Tendon Master Pro 9.2
$265 at Amazon $200 at SGT KNOTS
Impact force: 9.5 kN
Sheath percentage: n/a
Dynamic elongation: 31%
Available lengths: 60 m, 70 m
Pros and Cons
⊕ Durable
⊕ No kinks
⊗ Some may find it too supple
Tendon, a Czech brand, was born in 2005, but its parent company, Lanex, has been manufacturing ropes since World War Two. With that many years of experience, you’d expect a good cord. Testers were not disappointed. The rope comes packaged in a butterfly coil rather than the more classic (and kink-causing) factory spool, a little detail that didn’t go unnoticed.
“I was impressed with the rope’s out-of-box performance,” commented Climbing digital editor Anthony Walsh. “I literally took the rope out of its package, flaked it once on my living room floor, then packed it in a duffle bag and uncoiled it a second time at the base of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia. I experienced zero kinks or twists during the climb and rappels.”
Our lead tester used this rope for roughly 5,000 feet of alpine terrain, noting that the rope is both light and impressively durable—perfect for long approaches and rough granite—although some users may prefer a stiffer cord. The rope has a tightly woven sheath and was easy to manipulate, even with thickly gloved hands. The Master Pro 9.2 is constructed with Teflon, which is applied in the braiding process and serves as a dry treatment to protect against dirt, so it came as no surprise that the rope proved one of the more durable in our test. “So far, the rope has held up admirably to both rock, ice (read: moisture), and has shown zero signs of wear,” says Walsh.
Frequently Asked Questions
What length of rope do I need?
From the late 1800s to early 1900s, standard rope lengths were a mere 18 to 36 meters. Today’s ropes are most often sold in 60-, 70-, or 80-meter lengths. Buyers should consider the crags they most often visit to determine the most suitable length, keeping in mind that as the rope wears, you will need to cut off abraded ends.
What’s the difference between a thin and a thick rope?
Generally speaking, thicker ropes will last longer than skinny ones. However, technological improvements such as sheath weave and rope treatment have certainly helped in fortifying the strength and longevity of skinny ropes. Since they’re lighter, skinny ropes are ideal for someone looking to optimize redpoint goes or minimize drag.
Thicker ropes are still the preferred workhorses, as they can withstand more falls and more encounters with sharp rock. Generally speaking, 9.4 to 9.8 millimeters is considered the sweet spot, however there are certainly good options below and above that range depending on usage and need.
Types of Ropes
Ropes are available in single, half, and twin sizes. This review solely focused on single ropes, which are used for single and multi-pitch climbing, where the risk of rope damage from sharp rock is minimal. Climbers opting to get on aretes or trad climbs where protection may be placed to the either side of the climber might opt to use two half ropes (generally in the 7 to 9 millimeter range), each of which is strong enough to catch a fall by itself but light enough that it may be more easily used in conjunction with another rope. Twin ropes are typically 7 to 8 millimeters and are rated to be used together. They are best suited for alpine and ice routes with rappel descents.
Dry Treatment
Climbers looking to get out in wet or icy conditions should strongly consider splurging for a dry-treated rope. The uptick in price is occasionally significant, depending on the brand, but the upfront cost is worth it when you consider that ropes lose up to 30 percent of their energy-absorbing capabilities when wet.
It’s worth noting that the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has a standardized testing procedure for dry-treated ropes. In order to be UIAA Water Repellent Certified, a dry-treated rope must have absorbed less than 5 percent of its weight in water following a 15 minute test. Non-treated ropes will, on the other hand, absorb up to 50 percent of their weight in water.
Rope Specs
Ropes come with a slew of technical specs. Here are the basics buyers should know.
Impact Force
This refers to the force your body feels upon impact and is related to the elasticity of the rope and consequently the rope’s ability to absorb energy. A high impact force is particularly of concern for trad, ice, and alpine climbers, as it means more force will be relayed through the belay system and pieces of pro. Top ropers, on the other hand, may want to be wary of ropes with low impact forces, as that is a good indication the rope will stretch more, which can make toproping more dangerous. To meet UIAA standards, a single rope must have an impact force less than 12kN.
Dynamic Elongation
This is closely related to impact force. A high dynamic elongation indicates more stretch in a fall, which translates to a softer catch, but also a longer fall. A higher dynamic elongation may be less desirable for heavier climbers or those cragging in areas with large ledges. According to UIAA standards, a single rope should have a dynamic elongation percentage that is less than 40 percent of the rope’s length during the first UIAA fall.
Sheath Percentage
Sheath percentage is the ratio of core to sheath and it is a good indicator of durability. A rope with a thicker sheath will likely last longer, however other factors such as number of threads, weave type, and treatment will make this a less reliable indicator. Also, a too-thick sheath will make the rope feel stiff.
Rope Care
- Avoid stepping on your rope—this works dirt into the fibers.
- Avoid dirt; a 2010 study by the International Technical Rescue Symposium demonstrated that a rope can lose 20 percent of its strength after just one soiling, and 40 percent after eight soilings.
- Avoid storing your rope where it will be exposed to high heat or UV radiation.
- Avoid storing your rope coiled—instead opt to keep it stacked in a neat pile, ideally within a rope bag, which also helps with steps 1 through 3.
- Regularly inspect your rope for signs of wear, and cut damaged ends off as needed.
- As you cut down your rope, it gets shorter! Remember to always tie a knot at the end of your rope.
Read Our Complete Rope Care Guide
How We Test
- Number of testers: 10
- Number of products tested: 8
- Number of miles/vertical feet: about 50 pitches per rope
- Number of wobblers thrown on tested ropes: *Insert viral reel in which Michael Cohen kept saying “More”*
Testers were asked to evaluate how easily each rope uncoiled, how it handled, how it felt over time, how it caught falls, how it felt while climbing (such as: was it nice to clip?), how often it needed to be cut (and what type of terrain it was used on), if it was dry treated, and how it held up against moisture.
Meet Our Lead Testers
Delaney Miller, Climbing’s senior editor, has been climbing for 16 years. She’s won three U.S. Lead National Championship titles and has placed as high as seventh in two Lead World Cups. Miller primarily climbs in Rifle, Colorado, where she has climbed up to 5.14c.
Matt Samet, the former editor of Climbing, has been climbing since the 1980s and has been testing gear for 20 years.
Anthony Walsh is Climbing’s digital editor and in-house ice and alpine aficionado.
The post The Best Climbing Ropes for Rock, Ice, and the Gym appeared first on Climbing.