Knitty gritty: whether you’re a cable guy or a cashmere king, there’s no shortage of hot fuzz around this winter
As we sleigh ride towards Christmas all sensible thoughts surely turn to woollens.
Who doesn’t want to obsess over a jumbo jumper or a mega-slouchy cardigan at this point in the fashion calendar?
Side note: I’ve just semi-hyperventilated over a black ribbed Yohji Yamamoto jumper with a diagonal cutaway hem.
Anyway, thick, ribbed knits are definitely a bit of a thing this season, as is burgundy (more on that later), the “mock-neck”, distressed sweaters (things that look like they’ve got fag burns in, à la Kurt Cobain’s MTV Unplugged cardigan) and cable stitching/classic Aran. Google Robert Pattinson for how to best accessorise the latter. Clue: with big hair.
In the how-to-wear-your-jumper stakes the big thing is simply to wear more than one at a time.
This is where the mock-neck - a sort of shortened polo-neck - comes into its own. This style of sweater is all over the high-street (see Uniqlo and Topman) and works well under a classic crew or with an oversized cardigan, which Zara is totally all over. Basically, think dressing-gown vibes.
Let’s take a minute to talk about cardigans. Raf Simons and Jonathan Anderson both put oversized versions on their runways for autumn/winter - and they are definitely designed to replace a coat.
Michael Fassbender, man-hunk extraordinaire, models a grey J .W.Anderson one in this month’s GQ and looks suitably cosy while he’s about it. Meanwhile - sad face - the Raf ones have all but sold out.
However, in semi-related news, if you want to push things to their limits - i.e. you’re embracing your inner style rebel - then Acne Studios has a camel-fringed poncho for men that you can totally swish about your person and thus be both the envy of passers-by and fellow pub attendees alike.
Should you also feel the need to ramp up your wardrobe with something a bit festive but you draw the line at a comedy reindeer jumper (unless for charity, please let’s move on from the novelty knit), then a slab of burgundy is clearly the way to go.
Not only will it co-ordinate with mulled wine and nicely offset a cheese platter, it looks very chic with denim, navy and black. Raey’s cable knit in this shade is a worthy choice, ticking off two trends at once.
Meanwhile, Prada showed a banging deep V-neck sweater in a shade of burgundy which I have definitely had at least one sleepless night over. Said jumper also raises yet another big question: is the V-neck staging a comeback? Quite possibly. COS has some nice ones in store at the moment while New York label Orley has helpfully created a sweater that is both a V-neck and a mock in one - layering on a plate.
Finally to zip knits, undoubtedly the sleeper hit of the knit season. The zip knit is either a jumper that has a zipper at the neckline or a cardigan that looks a bit like a fine-gauge crew-neck but has a zip running down its centre.
At Hermès the latter was used in shades such as turquoise as part of some rather delicious layering action. Paul Smith’s are inspired by cycling kit and come in contrast colours. Meanwhile, for something classy and grown-up in grey cashmere, Mr Brunello Cucinelli is definitely your man.
And that, dear knitwear friends, is a wrap.
Simon Chilvers is men’s style director at matchesfashion.com
The best winter knits, whether you’re a cable guy or a cashmere kingRaf SimonsZaraMenswearPradaKurt CobainMichael FassbenderDolce & GabbanaRobert PattinsonAcne StudiosSimon ChilversPaul SmithJonathan AndersonIn the how-to-wear-your-jumper stakes the idea is simply to wear more than one at a time