Here's what it's like to visit Iceland in the winter

I couldn't believe it. Thousands of people visit Iceland each year to see the Northern Lights, many to no avail; yet I'd just flown right through them on my flight from NYC. That flight — a cheap $300 round-trip direct red eye fare I found through Wow Air — was the reason I was going to Iceland. And seeing the Northern Lights before even stepping foot in the country; well, let's just say I got more than I paid for.

Another gift was given to me before entering the country, in the form of a quick customs line with no forms needed.

The airport was gorgeous, too. Immaculately clean with lots of food and drink options — even at 5:30 am! Despite the early hour I felt high on images of hiking trails, waterfalls, glaciers and the other natural attractions I'd see during my time exploring "The Land of Fire & Ice."

I grabbed a coffee in anticipation of my red eye crash, trying to give myself energy for the drive I'd planned to hike to Reykjadalur Hot Springs. In typical "beyond the guidebook" fashion, my goal was to visit a number of hot springs that were not the Blue Lagoon.

My visions were quickly halted as I stepped outside to get my SADcars' rental — and a fierce gust of wind mixed with rain sent me and my coffee spiraling backward.

"Don't be nervous about the weather," smiled the SADcars rep. "It changes drastically from day to day. Tomorrow might be clear and sunny."

I stood there shivering and stunned. Well, so much for a hike.

Visiting In Winter: Worth It?

Before getting to Iceland I was worried about traveling solo and driving the entire route of the Ring Road. In Iceland in winter, roads often close due to weather issues — not to mention high winds do turn cars over — so it felt like I might run into some issues. For this reason, I decided to rent a car with the hilariously-named SADcars for half my trip and book tours for the other half, basing the entire time in Reykjavik.

The city itself has a lot to offer. There’s so much that’s accessible, like driving the Golden Circle and snorkeling the crystalline fissure of Silfra.

But, is visiting in winter worth the reduced airfare?

Yes! Well, as long as you can go with the flow.

I was traveling solo through Iceland for a week. Days 1-3 were pretty harsh, and two of my tours were cancelled. Days 4-7 though were excellent, though "excellent" in winter does still mean heavy fogs and on-and-off rain and snow. As long as you bring some essential gear you'll be fine.

Packing

So what are these essentials exactly? I’ve recently started using a smart carry-on, a very spacious Barracuda Bag, which allows me to both charge my phone on the go and maximize carry-on space. You’ll want space for Iceland in order to bring the necessary items to combat cold, rain, hail, snow and wind — sometimes all at once.

Along with your regular toiletries, camera, electronics, chargers and undergarments, I found it necessary to pack:

• Warm waterproof boots
• BUFF Headband (great as a scarf that turns into a face mask)
• BUFF Merino wool hat
• Scarf shawl (I wear the BUFF headband underneath)
• Waterproof warm gloves (I recommend a ski gloves like these)
• Merino wool undershirt
• Hoodie
• Winter coat
• Inner coat shell (wear this under your larger coat for added warmth)
• Compression socks
• Waterproof backpack or waterproof bags for electronics (especially in winter)
• Swimsuit for hot springs (I love Unique Vintage!)
• Clever Travel Companion pickpocket-proof garments (I always travel with these)

Funny enough, the one thing I packed that I did not use once was an umbrella. It tends to get very windy in Iceland, so it made more sense to wear waterproof gear than to use an umbrella that would just break within 10 minutes.

Renting A Car: SADcars

Renting a car is a great way to experience Iceland’s gorgeous landscapes at your own pace, and even in the rain and sleet once I got used to driving I felt way more comfortable than I expected on Iceland’s roads. Keep in mind I’m a New Yorker who doesn’t really drive, so if you drive regularly you’ll likely have an even easier time.

One great website for checking road closures in Iceland is road.is, though when you rent with SADcars they also provide road updates via email. It is vital you read these emails and check for updates, as storm warnings are no joke in the country.

Speaking of SADcars, that’s who I rented from in Iceland. When you arrive at the airport don’t be alarmed if you don’t see their rental booth in arrivals; you’ll actually be met by a rep who will drive you to their nearby office. I’d heard a rumor that all cars are stick shift in Iceland, but to my delight I was given Group G Suzuki SX4 automatic AWD car. The cost: $76 USD per day as they offer a 15% off prepayment discount!

Oh, and if you’re wondering about the name it’s the owner’s initials.

Stay: The Oddsson Ho(s)tel

I absolutely loved this hostel and hotel, which caters to both budget backpackers and the older budget traveler. On the fourth floor you’ll find a self-catering kitchen, free-to-use yoga room (with the occasional complimentary class), terrace lounge and outdoor hot tub. The first floor, on the other hand, has more of a hotel feel with a gorgeous restaurant, “yoga food” cafe, work areas with communal tables and plush couches, and free bike rentals. What’s awesome is both my dorm and my hotel room had gorgeous views of Faxaflói Bay and the Esja, Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði Mountains.

Rates: ~$33-$50 USD for a 12-bedroom dorm and ~$225-$385 USD for the private hotel room.

Do:

So, what the heck is there to do in Iceland when the winter weather is unpredictable? Interestingly, tours still run daily, though if the roads are bad you may get a cancellation call that morning or the day after. Even if it’s "nasty" out, unless there are road dangers the tours will go. Here are some recommended experiences based on my winter trip, depending on what you're looking for:

1. For The Budget-Conscious: A Free Reykjavik Walking Tour

While CityWalk offers a number of awesome tours, the most popular is their classic free walking tour. The two-hour excursion focuses on history and culture, paired with advice on how to explore without going broke (#1: skip the bottled water!). In terms of style it’s more like exploring with a local than the typical history tour. Bonus: you’ll be laughing nonstop at the tour is laced with humor. Just make sure to tip your guide at the end, as this is how they earn money!

Tip: As a solo traveler this tour was great for meeting other nomads!

2. For Those Wanting To Warm Up In An Ambient Restaurant: Savor An Icelandic Feast At Tapas Barinn

Facebook.com/tapasbarinn

This tapas restaurant takes the idea that small plates must be Spanish and flips it on its head. The chef at Tapas Barinn offers globally-inspired dishes, with a healthy dose of Icelandic influence. Think marinated Icelandic lamb in a licorice tub served on a rock, and pan-fried line caught blue ling with rich lobster sauce. All this was enjoyed after a culturally appropriate shot of traditional Brennivín Schnapps! It was delicious while traveling solo, though the romantic ambiance offers an uber romantic night out for couples, too.

Their feasts are about $67 USD, worth the price as you can try six different dishes, dessert and an aperitif. Needless to say I was full and happy after my meal.

3. For Those Wanting Something Completely Offbeat: Peruse The Penis Museum

Yes, you read that right.

Along with seeing Icelandic animals in the wild you can explore them through their penises at the Icelandic Phallological Museum. In fact, there’s over 200 penises representing every single mammal in Iceland, including humans, and some foreign wildlife. Also check out their phallic art for some added culture before you go.

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