In US, Asian night markets bring taste of the old and new

(AP) — Beneath the giant red sign illuminating the Asian Garden Mall in Southern California, slabs of jumbo, white squid are seared on a smoky grill.

[...] this one is much closer to home, in the city of Westminster in Orange County, where vendors sell everything from giant prawns and coconut waffles to home curtains and flashing toy pinwheels.

During the past five years, similar night markets have popped up in major cities throughout the United States, a byproduct of both the nation's expanding Asian-American population — the country's fastest growing racial minority, numbering some 19.4 million — and a growing culinary curiosity for authentic East Asian flavors.

Since about 2010, night markets have opened in Chicago, Cleveland, the Los Angeles metro area, New York City, Philadelphia and Pittsburgh.

By the Song dynasty in the 12th century, they had developed into sophisticated, well-organized centers selling grilled meats, stuffed buns and dried fruit.

"While we enjoyed our foods, we didn't really embrace it," said Hwang, whose 626 Night Market features classic Taiwanese favorites and fusion dishes like pho tacos and ramen burgers.

Celebrity chef and food adventurist Anthony Bourdain is creating a huge New York City market he has said will be open late and have the feel of an Asian night market, but also have prepared food stalls by celebrated chefs like April Bloomfield.

Danielle Chang, author of the cookbook "Lucky Rice" — a collection of night market recipes — was born in Taipei and funneled a passion for Asian food into her own night market-like events, including a cocktail-themed market party in Las Vegas.