Are Cold Water Waves Heavier Then Warm Water Waves?

Do cold, winter waves really pack more punch than warm, summer ones, or does it just seem that way? It's a question you may have heard bounded around by surfers who swear cold waves are heavier-feeling than warm ones – or vice versa.

There's a perception, for some reason, that summer waves seem to be softer and lighter with winter waves being gnarlier and thicker, with denser, darker water and longer, scarier hold-downs. Wiping out in warm, summer surf can almost be a pleasant experience, whereas wiping out in big, icy, winter surf can be torturous.

So, are the waves really more powerful, heavier, scarier in winter and cold water than warm water, or is it just the effect of the cold water on our bodies and on our minds? We asked author of Surf Science, Tony Butt to weigh in on the numbers behind the theory. Tony's also dedicated a huge portion of his life to§ remote, big waves -- the kind where there are no jet skis, no safety, just you and a gigantic mound of moving water.

We aso called up global big wave slab-hound Tom Lowe to weigh in on the matter too. Why Lowey? Well, he's put in countless hours at some of the heaviest cold water spots on the planet, as well as the warm water ones. So we think this Brit charger fits the bills.

What The Science Says: Tony Butt

"Most people agree that cold, winter swells seem to pack more punch than warm summer ones, even on the same beach with the same sized waves, but the reasons why are not so clear. I asked a few people what they thought about it:

“Winter waves are heavier because in cold water, the molecules are close together, thus making the water denser, though not much. In hot water, the molecules get so hot that they move faster, making them further apart and less dense."

“Personally I think it's got more to do with were the swell has travelled from."

“The cold seems to suck the air out of your lungs when you get smashed, so I reckon a cold water hiding hurts more."

“Let’s take the first quote above – the fact that cold water is denser than warm water, therefore the waves really are heavier when they break on your head.

“As a simple example, let’s assume that the water temperature is 50F in winter and 68F in summer. The density of seawater at 50F is about 0.2 per cent more than at 68F; therefore the same volume of water will weigh about 0.2 per cent more. I don’t know how much the lip of a ten-foot wave weighs, but let’s assume it weighs somewhere in the region of a tonne. That lip falling on your head in winter will weigh two kilograms more than it would in the summer. Is that enough to notice the difference?

“The second quote suggests that winter swells are more powerful because they come from further away. This is very interesting. If you are lucky enough to get a 10-foot swell in the summer, it will most likely have come from a relatively weak low near the coast, meaning shorter periods and slower waves. On the other hand, the same size swell in the winter might have come from a more powerful storm much further away, meaning longer periods and faster, more powerful waves.

“That idea works well for some places, but not for others. For example, what about places like Cape Town, South Africa, where the water can be 48F in summer when you are surfing relatively weak five-foot beachbreaks, but 64F in winter when you are surfing solid 20-foot Dungeons?

“Maybe, like the third quote above, what really makes winter waves heavier is the effect the cold water has on the human body. This is logical. Even with a good wetsuit you can still feel the difference. Water conducts heat away from your body 32 times quicker than air, and the body loses about half its heat through the head.

"Therefore, a cold water hold-down will probably seem to last longer than a warm water one, with every painful second feeling like ten. When you eventually surface, you might feel disorientated and drained of energy, and the last thing you want is another wave on the head.”

What The Surfer Says: Tom Lowe

“That's an interesting question. Growing up in Cornwall, and with Ireland being my spiritual homeland – I feel more comfortable in waves over there, especially if it's giant, in the heart of winter. The colder and wilder it is the more I come alive. The cold strips down the ego layers and connects me to my deeper self. Brings up all kinds of thoughts , feelings and emotions that I don’t get in warm water. As tough as it can be at times to dig deep and want to send it when it’s freezing, it’s where I’ve pushed my surfing the most and I’m forever drawn to it.

“I don’t think many people out there would argue that cold water surfing is easier than warm water surfing. It’s much less inviting and you've got all that rubber, boots gloves, hood. Your body’s tense and breathing can be hectic when the wind’s howling. It can literally be painful to take nose breaths unless you’re acclimatized.

“In terms of wipeouts, a big nasty fall in cold or warm water can break you apart. But in cold water, when your hood gets ripped off, and it will at some stage if you surf the likes of Maverick's or Mullaghmore enough, it's horrendous. You feel as if your head is going to explode. Being spun around under water with no hood is so much more intense and there is so much more pressure than in warm water I’ve found.

“On a scientific perspective, breathing and regulating your nervous system is paramount around huge waves. A few calm breaths between all the madness can be game changing. Being as calm as you can under pressure is what’s it’s all about.

“If you’re shivering and wasting all that energy on staying warm it’s taxing on the system. The mind also plays tricks as the cold creeps in. It’s harder to stay focused for a longtime, even after an hour when it’s really cold. Talking nonsense with the crew can feel like a deprive, but can be consequential if it impacts focus and decision making in giant waves. 

“I’m way more relaxed at 20-foot Puerto Escondido. Even though the wave is so heavy. You can stay out for four hours, easily, unless you get smoked of course. I’ll happily bob around looking at turtles and rays taking it all in until the right one comes to me. It’s all so different. In Ireland, the raw beauty is like nothing else, but I've only got a couple of hours in me to stay within the safety boundaries. If I push through the cold for too long I’m asking for trouble. So I am very self-aware and vigilant of my mind and body, and pull the pin early if I’m not feeling right.

“Overall, there are so many more elements that go into the discussion of warm water vs cold water surfing than just what's heavier. I guess, personally, outside of Ireland; which I am spiritually connected to, I'd choose warm water over cold water any time if there weren't crowds. But when the waves are massive, no matter where it is, it's just big, scary and there’s high consequences. I don't like to compare waves or spots, say something is more hardcore or anything like that, I respect all these places the same.  When it's beasty, it’s just beasty.”