Recipe: A New Year’s reset with a bowl of cioppino

After the indulgence of the holidays, it’s time to lighten things up. Consider it a New Year’s reset — a comforting shift from rich, meat-heavy feasts to steaming bowls of nourishing soups and stews.

Meat can certainly stay in the mix, but the clean, bright flavors of seafood offer a refreshing change of pace. And for that, look no further than cioppino.

Cioppino is a classic San Francisco seafood stew that dates back to the 1800s, when Italian and Portuguese fishermen would chop up the leftovers from their daily catch to create a hearty, tomato-based soup.

Its name comes from the Italian word ciuppin, meaning “to chop.” While white wine is traditionally used to enrich the broth, this version calls for red wine, lending the stew deeper flavor and softer acidity.

There is no set rule for the combination of fish and shellfish in a cioppino, except to choose as fresh as possible and provide a variety for texture and presentation.

For instance, a classic San Francisco cioppino will often include Dungeness crab, which is abundant in the winter season, but it can easily be omitted. Choose a selection of shellfish to your taste, and be sure to include chunks of a firm-fleshed white fish, such as halibut, cod or sea bass, for substance.

This stew is meant to be eaten straight away to capture the freshness of the fish. The bulk of the cooking time will be devoted to developing the broth. This step can be prepared in advance, and the stock can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.

When ready, reheat the stock and proceed with the recipe. Once the fish has been added and cooked, the cioppino is ready to serve.

Cioppino

Active time: 50 minutesTotal time: 50 minutesYield: Serves 5 to 6

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 medium fennel bulb, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian plum tomatoes

1 cup medium-bodied red wine

2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon granulated sugar (optional)

1 pound (12 to 15) fresh clams, rinsed

1 pound (12 to 15) fresh mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1 pound large (16 to 18) shrimp, peeled, deveined (tails intact optional)

1 pound firm white fish, such as halibut, sea bass or cod, cut into 1-inch chunksChopped fresh Italian parsley for garnish

DIRECTIONS

Heat the oil in a large soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat.

Add the onion and fennel and cook until the vegetables soften without coloring, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic, oregano and red pepper flakes and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and stir to create a slurry.

Add the tomatoes, wine, stock, orange juice, bay leaf, salt and black pepper.

Bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes to develop the flavor. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or the sugar, if desired.

Add the clams and mussels to the pot. Cover and cook over medium heat until the clams and mussels have opened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the shrimp and white fish and stir gently until the fish is cooked through, about 5 minutes more. Discard any unopened clams or mussels.

Ladle the stew into warm serving bowls and garnish with parsley. Serve with crusty bread.

Lynda Balslev is an award-winning writer, cookbook author and recipe developer based in Northern California. Visit TasteFood at TasteFoodblog.com.